Exploring Portugal’s West Coast in a Tiny PandaVan

We're no strangers to epic van conversions and a life lived on the road here at Passenger. But when we heard about Eva and her PandaVan, a DIY tiny camper conversion of a beloved Fiat Panda, our attention was well and truly piqued. 

We first spoke to Eva last year when she gave us the lowdown on her DIY PandaVan, how it came to be and a taste of her adventures on four wheels. We couldn't get enough of the PandaVan diaries so Eva is back with part two - this time sharing her stories from exploring Portugal's West Coast in search of surf, sunsets and epic coastal roads. If you've been thinking of a trip to Portugal's West Coast, this might just tip you over...

After weeks of creative planning and getting everything ready for my first journey with a Fiat PandaVan, it’s finally time to head south to Portugal! I finish the Panda build on a Wednesday, pack my things on Thursday and hit the road south on a cold, frosty Friday morning. I’m excited and can hardly believe that in a few days I’ll be surfing again in southern Portugal. 

I’ve done several trips in a (bigger) van before - through southern Spain, Morocco, France and Italy - but never this far on my own, and never in such a tiny car, with only 45 hp for a 3000 km ride.

Portugal has long been on my mind for a surf trip a long time. The Atlantic coastline offers countless beaches and surf spots, many of them connected by scenic coastal roads. Many spots are very swell-dependent, so flexibility is key - especially when you are looking for smaller waves like me. 

The west coast receives the full force of the Atlantic swell and often produces powerful waves, while the southern Algarve coast can be more sheltered and sometimes works when the west gets too big or windy, so I’m heading here first. 

I’m travelling in early spring (mid March to beginning of May), a great time to visit: the landscape is incredibly green, flowers are everywhere and the summer crowds haven’t arrived yet. The weather can still be a little unpredictable, though.

My first stop is in Switzerland, which greets me with stormy weather and heavy rain. Luckily I stay at a friend’s house near St. Gallen. Since the storm is supposed to get even stronger overnight, I cover my PandaVan with a tarp. The next day I spontaneously join a local boulder competition organised by my friend. I have only tried bouldering a few times, but it’s a fun event - and I even win something ... at the tombola.

Continuing south through Italy and France, the weather changes constantly and I also get into heavy rainstorms. I take a break of 2 days near Valencia, and later near Almeria, in a nice artsy community place. There I soak up the warmth and sunshine, enjoy a wonderful Easter brunch, and then continue on the final part of my journey. A few days later I reach Sagres, at the southwestern tip of Portugal. After more than a week on the road, I’m ready to go surfing!

• Finding surf buddies when travelling solo - I connected with other surfers on my way south through local Facebook groups - old but still very useful, especially when travelling in the off-season

• Sleeping spots on the road: The app park4night is a great help for finding practical overnight spots. But in France I also often use the Camper Connect Network, which offers safe and affordable sleeping places along major routes

• Creative stop in Spain: North of Almería, check out Rec.on - a large community space with good food, lots of space for camping and welcoming hosts and guests

• Toll highways in Portugal: If you plan to use toll highways, make sure to register your vehicle beforehand: pttolls.com/en

In Sagres I quickly settle into a simple rhythm: surfing, exploring beaches, cooking and moving my tiny PandaVan between spots.

My favourite moments are the mornings by the ocean. I wake up, put my bedding away, stretch a bit and then make breakfast and coffee in the van while looking out over the blue water. Around me people are making breakfast in their vans, outside it is still quiet and the first people with their dogs pass by. 

After the heavy rains on my way south, spring turns out to be an amazing season. The landscape is lush and green, flowers bloom and the coastal roads wind through the beautiful countryside. I’m relieved that the weather stays mostly sunny. There is often wind - typical for the Atlantic coast - but rain is rare during my stay. In my first weeks I meet other surfers and travellers, and we explore different places together. 

Travelling with a small van has its advantages. I can park almost anywhere, squeeze through narrow village streets and easily explore small coastal roads. And also without 4x4 the Panda handles dirt roads surprisingly well. The Panda feels perfectly suited for my surf mission. My wetsuit usually dries quickly hanging outside on the roof rack. Unfortunately the wetsuit once gets caught in the wind and rips off my antenna. A small souvenir from the trip ;)

Some of the places I enjoyed surfing:

• Praia do Tonel - beautiful scenery, though a bit tricky with rocks in the water. Also great for sunsets

• Praia do Burgau - a charming small town where I enjoyed some amazing longboard sessions 

• Praia do Zavial - a scenic drive through the hills. It can get busy here when other spots don’t work

• It’s worth also exploring the beautiful coastline near Carrapateira, watching sunset from the cliffs above Praia da Cordoama, or walking down to the remote beach near Figueiras (only reachable by foot)

• Surf rentals and also second-hand boards can be found at Island Style Surfshop in Vila do Bispo

Sagres and the surrounding villages offer plenty of great cafés and restaurants. Here are some places I visited and enjoyed: 

• Three Little Birds in Sagres - amazing cheesecake

• Picnic in Sagres - great bakery with delicious bread and pastries

• O Sabor da Alegria in Figueiras - excellent pizza and great vibe

• Andorinha do Mar in Figueiras - a small, hidden organic café 

After two weeks in the area I’ve seen great places, but I’m not progressing much in my surfing, and I’m often surfing on my own. When I hear about a women’s longboard retreat, a bit further north in Alentejo, I sign up spontaneously. I’ve tried longboarding once before and loved it. A few days later, with a rented longboard (three boards in total) strapped to the Panda, I head north.

After about two hours of driving I reach the Alentejo region. It’s April now and spring is in full bloom. The retreat takes place on a beautiful property with old windmills and a huge garden. Every day we surf together, practise on our longboards and return to delicious home-cooked meals in the evening. Surfing with the same group for several days makes a big difference. For the first time on the trip I feel real progress and start paddling for slightly steeper waves.

Besides surfing, the region is also wonderful for hiking. On a first walk through the countryside I’m surrounded by wildflowers and old cork trees and cross a long-distance hiking trail. Such trails as the Fisherman’s Trail or the Historical Way (both part of the Rota Vicentina) lead through stunning scenery and coastal landscapes.

• Praia da Arrifana - beautiful setting with a long, steep access to the beach and a lively surf vibe

• Praia de São Torpes - not the most picturesque beach but often great for longboarding

• Vila Nova de Milfontes - a charming town and perfect stop after a surf. Try the croissant with ice cream at Mabi Gelatarias

• Around Porto Covo you’ll also find beautiful coastal roads with great ocean views

After the great longboarding week and another week in Sagres, I drive north again but this time further, to the peninsula of Peniche. The surf scene here is lively, there’s lots of great coffee places and bars with live music at night. I meet friends from the previous year and enjoy a few final sessions. However, during one surf my board flips into the air and a fin cuts deep into my hand. Luckily my neighbour at the parking spot happens to be a doctor and can fix the cut professionally. 

With a bandaged hand, I take it as a sign that it might be time to head home after six weeks on the road.

• Cabo da Roca near Sintra offers breathtaking views of the Atlantic cliffs

• Ericeira is a lively surf town with beautiful cafés and a relaxed atmosphere

• Near the lighthouse in Peniche it’s beautiful to park and watch the sunset

• In Baleal it’s worth walking to the tip of the peninsula for views over both beaches

• The nearby village Ferrel has become a lively surf hub with great cafés and restaurants

  • Padaria do Mar - excellent sourdough bread

  • SOL - great coffee

  • Funkey Donkey - delicious pizza

On my way back I stop in Zarautz, Spain and later in Capbreton, France - two places where I often pause on road trips. This time unfortunately it rains for two days straight. I spend cosy hours inside the Panda, listening to the rain on the roof and giving my hand time to heal. On the third day the weather finally clears, the cut in my hand looks good and I manage one last surf session in the sunshine! 

Then it’s time to head back to Germany with my tiny PandaVan - and I’m already looking forward to the next trip - which will lead me to great surfing beaches in Brittany. 

I love travelling - as much as I love coming home. These opposites have been a part of me for 20 years. London, Barcelona, California - I’ve lived, studied, and worked there, yet I’ve always enjoyed returning to Munich. Ten years ago, I moved 70km south of Munich, to Rosenheim, out of love for the mountains. My fascination with the sea and life abroad remained, and led to many van trips. I often combine travel with my work as a freelancer - even in the PandaVan. Because in a van, I can live both the joy of travelling and the feeling of being at home.

eva-baumgartl.de
@eva.anna_creative